Nakhon Pathom en Ayutthaya

NAKHON PATHOM
In gespannen situaties, lees een grappig boek. Deze tip uit het doosje voor geluk dat Carolien meekreeg van Mirjam heb ik in de trein van Chumpon naar Nakhon Pathom toegepast en ik moet zeggen het werkt! Ik kan het iedereen aanbevelen. Overigens waar we hadden verwacht dat de trein het meest veilig en relaxed zou zijn, blijkt dat deze eer de openbaar vervoer bussen toekomt (tot nu toe). Er hebben zich ook alternatieve vormen van vervoer aan ons aangeboden maar deze hebben we vriendelijk geweigerd en gaan we ook niet testen: denk hierbij aan vervoer met volle bepakking achterop een scooter :-s.

Wist je dat de Thai als land een hoog percentage keelkanker hebben? Dit komt door het gepeperde eten die bepaalde beschermende bacterien dood die in de keel zitten (dit hebben wij ons laten vertellen door Alex (bond). Wij vragen altijd om mai pet oftewel no spicy, dit werkt helaas niet altijd. Helaas is het eten meestal zo ontzettend lekker dat je, ondanks dat de stoom uit je oren blaast, niet kan stoppen met eten.

Dinsdag 18 december 2007
Terwijl kerst in zicht komt lopen we zwetend door de straten van Nakhon Pathom, een van de oudste steden van Thailand. We vallen op en er wordt besmuikt naar ons geglimlacht terwijl we een tentje proberen te vinden om te ontbijten. Uiteindelijk zien we iets wat op een bakkerijtje lijkt en gaan er met rommelende magen op af. Helaas is het een banketbakkerij dus we vragen of zij een idee hebben waar we kunnen ontbijten. Zodra we een woord Engels spreken wordt er geschrokken en verlegen gereageerd door de dames achter de toonbank. Er loopt er meteen een roepend naar achteren. Er wordt nog een dame naar voren getoverd en deze spreekt behoorlijk Engels. Ze verwijst ons naar de markt om de hoek. Later komen we nog twee keer bij haar terug: een keer om te vragen waar we een kaart van de stad kunnen vinden (die is niet, een toerist office evenmin) en voor brownies bij de koffie.
In de markthal eten we een simpele noedelsoep met groenten, volgens Martijn goed voor de lijn en lekker veilig. Daarna gaan we de markt over en weer komen ons vele blikken en glimlachen tegemoet. Zo hebben we de Thai nog niet echt meegemaakt.

Na de markt bezoeken we de grootste bezienswaardigheid van de stad, de Chendi. Deze is hier geplaatst ter ere van een bezoek van Indiase missionarissen (zo’n 2000 jaar geleden) die het Boedhisme hier de regio hebben binnengebracht. Onderweg blijkt waarom wij hier tot bezienswaardigheden worden gerekend. Er zijn vrijwel geen andere toeristen te bekennen. Bij de trekpleister komen we er een aantal tegen maar het lijkt of deze hier voor een dagje of een paar uur zijn en elders verblijven.

Deze stad is de eerste echte Thaise stad die we meemaken. Alles is gericht op de Thai en dat wij er zijn, dat moeten wij weten. Helemaal super! Het is hier heel leuk om naar de Thai te lachen, ze lachen namelijk altijd (uit beleefdheid) terug. We hebben een boxsetje voor de ipod gekocht (6 euro inclusief batterijen) en we zijn er superblij mee. Hij is inklapbaar, heeft goede speakers en tovert de kamer om tot Cubaanse hacienda of Oost Duitse retrotechnoclub. Dit jaren 50 hotel kan voor allebei door.

Woensdag 19 december
Na heerlijk op onze harde matrasjes te hebben geslapen ging om 06.00 uur het wekkertje. Heerlijk! Zelfs op vakantie houden we de discipline erin. Op naar de floating market! Onderweg kwamen we een hoop ouders die de kinderen naar school brachten, soms wel met 4 of 5 tegelijkop een scooter (foto’s volgen) en ook deze man met lading (let op de peuk die losjes tussen de vingers hangt, je kunt er dus rustig even een sigarettje bij roken..)

Brommer met lading

We gingen er helemaal voor. Vier drukke kruispunten oversteken en we waren bij de busstop en hup het busje in. Het is altijd leuk om een ticket in de bus te kopen, want ze maken er hier een heel ritueel van. Ze hebben een kokervormig instrument van ijzer waar in de strippen zitten. Als je een bestemming opgeeft (op z`n thais “wieken markit”) begint de vrouw de tickets op een chinese vouwkunsten manier met het ijzeren instrument te bewerken. Wat een techniek en souplesse! Een halve minuut later krijg je de tickets (of wat ervan over is) in de hand gedrukt. Eenmaal bij het afzetpunt aangekomen bleek dit niet meer te zijn dan een grindveld met maar 1 organisatie aan het water die verrassend genoeg een bootexcursie naar de market aanbood. Dit riekte naar onderlinge afspraken tussen buschaffeur en de organisatie. Voor 1500 baht konden we mee. 1500 baht? Kus onze PIEP! We voelden ons aardig gepiepeld en we dongen flink af naar 500 baht. Wat een zielige thaise gezichten, maar toen we wegliepen gingen ze toch akkoord…

Nu dan de floating market. Wat vonden we ervan? Voor de zaandammers, we voelden ons net twee toeristen op de zaanse schans. Voor iedereen die de zaanse schans niet kent, een massa van toeristen die naar een paar molens komen kijken. Fake, fake, fake en nog eens fake. Leuk om te zien hoe het ooit was, maar helaas veel te veel toeristen en alleen maar koopwaar puur voor toerisme. Een absolute afrader dus. Terug in de bus waren we blij dat we weer een kaartje konden kopen, toch wel een attractie op zich…

Zondag 23 december
Na een lange en bewogen verkiezingscampagne, vondt vandaag de climax plaats en gingen miljoenen Thai naar de stembussen. De koning had vooraf deze stemronde het volk “eendracht” en “kalmte” geinstrueerd. De afgelopen jaren zijn de verkiezingen niet geheel volgens het democratisch gestel verlopen en kenmerkten de verkiezingen zich door corruptie en millitair ingrijpen waarbij de toenmalige president Thaksin werd afgezet en verbannen naar het buitenland.
Zondag , zover was duidelijk, was voor ons de dag om uit Bangkok te vertrekken naar onze volgende bestemming. Hier wat foto’s van de soms lachwekkende verkiezingsposters. Mensen hebben vaak een uniform aan omdat dit er ‘ geloofwaardig’ uitziet (denken wij).

Pink lady, iets teveel gephotoshoptDe BoybandBrillo

AYUTTHAYA
Ayutthaya (80 km noordelijk van Bangkok) is een oude hoofdstad van Thailand, gelegen op een 4 kilometer wijd rivier eiland en was in 1351 gesticht. Ayutthaya is vanaf die tijd ontzettend gegroeid en kende vanaf 1685 1 miljoen inwoners. Dat was 2x zoveel als in Londen in die tijd. Hier kwam een abrupt einde aan door de invasie van het Burmese rijk in 1767, waarbij Ayutthaya totaal werd verwoest. Tegenwoordig herbergt de “oude kern” van Ayutthaya nog ruines van tempels en paleizen uit deze tijd, die zijn geinspireerd door de zogenaamde Khmer stijl. Denk aan het ooit zo machtige Khmer en de tempels van Angkor (Cambodja). Vandaar dat dit gebied door UNESCO in 1991 op de werelderfgoedlijst is gezet. Zo dat was weer even een snelle ronde “feiten en weetjes”, heb je wat om indruk mee te maken tijdens menig nieuwjaarsborrel, SUCCES!

Genoeg redenen dus om Ayutthaya eens een bezoekje te brengen. Na ingecheckt te hebben bij het guesthouse zijn we meteen die middag nog een boottocht gaan doen over de rivier waar we een paar van deze befaamde tempels hebben bezocht.

Boottocht van tempel naar tempelKhmer stijlAardig hoge en stijle trappetjes

Maandagochtend zouden we vroeg opstaan om een tocht door de “oude kern” te fietsen. Helaas werd Carolien geveld door waarschijnlijk een virus of bacterie en heeft de nachtelijke uurtjes voornamelijk in de badkamer gespendeerd. Martijn had eerder die week in Bangkok last van dit mysterie en had de wc pot van binnen en buiten gezien. Maandag was dus een dag van rust en uitzieken. Gelukkig voelde Carolien zich dinsdag beter en gingen we met volle moed de fiets op. Helaas hield dit niet lang stand en na een bezicbtiging van het grand palace zijn we terug naar het guesthouse gegaan en is Carolien gaan rusten.

Carolien voelt zich ellendig op de fiets en kan niet meer lachen voor de camera

Ten tijde van dit schrijven voelt ze zich gelukkig alweer stukken beter! Morgen dus weer een nieuwe dag met nieuwe kansen en hopelijk een top weerstand voor ons beiden. En moeders, maak je niet ongerust, zelfs de meest ervaren reizigers hebben op zijn tijd last van diarree en overgeven, het valt ons mee dat we het nu pas hebben ondervonden! Anders gezegd, we hebben onze vuurdoop gehad. MAXIMUM RESPECT.

Op dit moment bevinden we ons in guesthouse Tony’s place, een leuke, sfeervolle tent aan een van de hoofdwegen met goedkoop internet, een bed waar Martijn helemaal in past(!) en een grote televisie met het Hallmark kanaal (waar Oprah altijd naar verwijst in haar shows). Uiteraard worden hier op het moment allerhande kerstfilms op vertoond. Ook het personeel is in kerstsferen (melly chlismass) met leuke kerstmutsjes op en alles is versierd.

In kerstsferenIn kerstsferen

Uit de boxen klinken geen kersttunes maar gauwe ouwe en de tune van mijn favoriete Thaise soap over een vrouw die eerst arm was en nu heel rijk. Die wordt uiteraard door al het aanwezige vrouwelijke personeel meegezongen (ik probeer het ook tot groot vermaak van Martijn maar het lukt nog niet helemaal). Vanochtend aan het ontbijt mochten we meedoen aan een chlismassday grabbel en grabbelde Martijn een gratis koffie uit het doosje. Carolien was helaas te veel uitgeschakeld om van dit alles foto’s te nemen.

Morgen hopen we dat Carolien zich weer goed genoeg voelt om naar de volgende stad door te reizen: Sukhothai (de basis en hoofdstad van het eerste Thaise koningkrijk 1238-1376). Vanuit deze stad hebben de Thai de Khmer teruggedrongen en het grootste deel van wat nu Thailand is eigen gemaakt. Ook de taal is uit deze stad voortgekomen en verspreid, dit is dus eigenlijk de geboorteplaats van het land en alleen daarom al een bezoekje waard.

In de tuk tuk, Carolien voelt zich alweer stukken beterOok Martijn is weer topfit!De tuk tuks hier zien er weer net even wat anders uit dan die in Bangkok

Dan nog even dit, onze constateringen na een maand reizen in Azie:
Je past je als vanzelf aan: je wordt een propper ipv een vouwer (Nathalie), je passen worden trager, je geduld eindeloos, je Engels ‘retarded’ belabberd, kinderlijk eenvoudig, je prijsperceptie constant bijgesteld, je normen voor persoonlijke hygiene losjes en je ijdelheid.. Welke ijdelheid?

216 Reacties to “Nakhon Pathom en Ayutthaya”

  1. Hé Lieve Schatten

    Dat zijn weer leuke verhalen om te lezen. Wat een avonturen weer.

    En dan hebben jullie je ook nog door lichamelijke ongemakken heen geworsteld! Nu is alles achter de rug en hebben jullie daar terecht MAXIMUM RESPECT voor verdiend.

    Maar niet alleen daarvoor hoor, voor alles wat jullie ondernemen!

    Lieverds, veel plezier, op naar de volgende plaats met de bijbehorende verhalen. Maar neem wel op tijd jullie rust.

    Toedeloe hele dikke koessies van de Troessie

  2. hartelijk bedankt voor al het mee-genieten en wat het bijpraten betreft:heb ik jullie persoonlijk gemaild…

    Lijkt me leuk om de jaarwisseling mee te maken , ben erg benieuwd…

    veel liefdevolle chill-momenten, leuk ook dat we zo af en toe met elkaar kunnen skypen…

    hug hanneke

  3. He TOPPERS,

    Wat een mooie foto’s en goeie verhalen!
    Leuk om al die achtergrond info. te lezen.

    Op die foto van Carolien met fiets was goed te zien dat je aardig beroerd was.
    Gelukkig zie je er weer wat beter uit… (hoe weet ik dat) SKYPEN!!!!! (wat een uitvinding)

    Ik denk dat jullie nu inmiddels wel immuun zijn geworden!
    MAXIMUM RESPECT.

    Heel veel plezier bij jullie volgende plaats ( kong song whong plok ;) )

    P.S. Leuk dat het doosje geluk jullie goeie raad geeft….

    Dikke knuffels Mir

    (jammer vinnie toch weer eerder dan jij…)

  4. hier spreekt de great hoff dus niet de hassel hoff
    maar de great, het T-shirt is stoer, ik ga het met fietsen dragen zodat niemand met mij gaat sollen in de kroeg, (want dan zien ze het pas). ongetwijfeld gaan ze mij met meneer aanspreken maar dat hoeft nu ook weer niet, hoewel als ze me nieuwjaarskaart zien zullen ze me wel heel anders aanspreken.
    maar dat zien we dan wel weer, mijn harige vrouw is ook verheugd met het shirt en wil het ook graag dragen maar dat mag niet van mij. want ik vind het een leuk kadootje, dank jullie wel. trouwens goeie film van julie, martijn zal er geen ossekar mee winnen maar toch wel leuk. ik ga stoppen want de tafel wordt gedekt carolinas hoop dat je buikie beter gaat, martijntje hoop dat je hoofd beter wordt ??he, ja de drank jongen die nog gaat komen. nou tot ziens en hukkie van rudie

  5. Haiiii Carolien en Martijn,
    erug leuk jullie verhalen te lezen. jullie schrijven helder en duidelijk, ben bijna zelf mee aan het genieten alsof ik me in het warme thailand bevind.
    goed te horen dat jullie weer krachtig genoeg zijn om jullie mooie dingen te doen!!

    Hier vanuit arnhem gaat het goed en heb goede kerstdagen gehad met allerlei familiegedoetjes. Vandaag en gisteren een beetje aan lopen klooien in huis samen met hans en volgende week weer lekker aan de studie bezig, nu nog eerst ff chillen en dan weer knallen (pffff nog 6 maanden….)

    goed ik mail jullie snel weer. de lasagne riep ons om hem op te eten, dus (oh ja, dat vind jij ook lekker he caro??!) ik ga eten en ik spreek jullie gauw. Zie jullie verhalen gauw weer tegemoet!

    Alvast een geweldig, gezond en liefdevol 2008 voor jullie beiden toegewenst!!!!!!

    Dikke zoen van Tinus

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